Solo climber rescued on Capitol Peak

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The first sun hits the east-facing slopes of the mountains of the Elk Range. Capitol Peak towers above everything else on the left.
Beau Toepfer/The Aspen Times

A climber was successfully rescued from Capitol Peak, one of Aspen’s 14ers, early Wednesday morning.

The Pitkin County Regional Emergency Dispatch Center originally received a call from the stranded climber and were able to communicate with the individual before their location shifted and they utilized Apple satellite text, according to information shared by Pitkin County Sheriff’s Chief Deputy of Operations Parker Lathrop and Mountain Rescue Aspen. A press release confirms the climber was on Capitol Peak’s Northwest Buttress Route at 12:30 a.m. Wednesday, the climber’s intended route.

“(They) started at a much later time than we would hope to see,” Lathrop said.



Mountain Rescue Aspen kept in contact with the climber throughout the night, advising them to stay put until sunrise.

“It’s all about risk, looking at where they were located on the wall of Capitol and the time,” Lathrop said. “At that time of night, (a rescue can) create more hazards than it fixes.”



Lathrop confirmed that the climber’s life was not in imminent danger. While the original report relayed that the climber had hand and foot cold-related injuries and was unable to move, the press release states that they later contacted Mountain Rescue Aspen during the overnight period with an update that they felt they could begin “moving under their own power.”

As the night continued, the injured climber ultimately was unable to walk out, requiring further assistance.

At 5:15 a.m., Careflight of the Rockies launched from Montrose and headed to the area, according to the release. At the same time, mountain rescue was working with Colorado Search & Rescue to put the Colorado National Guard and HAATS on standby in case a hoist was required, according to the release.

“The subject was able to slowly make it down from the (Northwest) Buttress on Capitol, to Capitol Pass under their own power,” the release states.

Careflight then landed on Capitol Pass to pick up the subject and transport them to Aspen Valley Health by 6:45 a.m.

The Pitkin County Sheriff’s Office emphasized in the release that backcountry users should always carry a personal satellite device, know the route and one’s own abilities, wear the right clothing and gear, pre-plan trips to avoid late starts, set turn-around times and always have a backcountry partner.

“The buddy system works,” Lathrop said. “You should always go with somebody. All the peaks in the Elk Range are the more difficult 14ers in the state. What sets Capitol apart from the rest is that the consequences are a lot more immediate. I would argue all our mountains are dangerous, but that with that Knife Edge, you have less room for error.”

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